Tradition rules the world of winemaking, where particular regions are so well known for their wines that their identities are married; Champagne, for example, is both a wine and an area in France. A study published in the journal Nature Climate Change says that vintners ought to be learning about the great diversity of grape varieties in order to adapt to climate change.
At present, a dozen varieties make up 80 percent of the wine market in many countries, according to Harvard assistant professor Elizabeth Wolkovich, co-author of the study. She says that as the climate changes, it will be difficult for many regions to continue to grow the same varieties they do now. “What we’re interested in talking about is how much more diversity of grape varieties do we have, and could we potentially be using that diversity to adapt to climate change.” There are more than 1,000 grape varieties grown in Europe, some of which are better adapted to hotter and drier climates than the mainstays now in production.
Winemakers resist that discussion for fear that it might undermine their position as the producers of fine wines, says Wolkovich. At the same time, researchers have insufficient data on which varieties might be the best replacements. “Right now we know we have this diversity, but we have little information on how to use it. One of our other suggestions is for growers to start setting aside parts of vineyards to grow some other varieties, to see which ones are working,” said study co-author Ignacio Morales-Castilla. While labeling laws are a hurdle to a change in varieties used in Europe, in other countries, where terroir is less of a barrier, growers often have little knowledge of varieties grown outside of their area.
With the change in climate, “certain wines in certain regions will start to fail — that’s my expectation,” said Wolkovich in a Harvard release. “I think we’re missing a lot of great grapes better suited for the future.”